Walking with Kierkegaard

Join him for a stroll through Copenhagen streets, Frederiksberg gardens, Assistens Cemetery, the City Lakes, and the Gilleleje landscape, with the story at every stop and live directions to the next.

“Above all, do not lose your desire to walk: every day I walk myself into a state of well-being and walk away from every illness; I have walked myself into my best thoughts, and I know of no thought so burdensome that one cannot walk away from it.”
Letter to his niece Henriette Lund, 1847, Letters and Documents, trans. Henrik Rosenmeier

Choose an outing

Room to walk, look, and read

The Copenhagen outings range from a two-hour circuit of the City Lakes to a five-hour museum and harbour afternoon. Gilleleje is longer: its established 12-kilometre route deserves a full day once the train journey is included.

Essential day 1 · Morning or full day

The established Old City walk

Follow the nine numbered stops from I Kierkegaards fodspor, from Church of Our Lady to Rosenborggade, then continue three minutes to Kierkegaard's former Kultorvet address.

10stops
2 kmwalking
3–3¼ hwith visits
The pale stone front and square tower of the Church of Our Lady seen from the street
At the routeThe Church of Our Lady, where the walk begins.Image: Ib Rasmussen · Public domain
Stop 1 of 10Church of Our Lady

Stop 1 of 10

Church of Our Lady

Nørregade 8, 1165 København

The cathedral holds the whole arc in one place: the Christianity Kierkegaard inherited, the public institution he attacked, and the church funeral that his nephew protested at the graveside.

Kierkegaard worshipped here after the rebuilt cathedral opened in 1829 and heard Bishop J. P. Mynster preach. His funeral was held here on 18 November 1855, after his final campaign against the established church.

“one must reflect oneself out of the appearance of being a Christian”
The Point of View for My Work as an Author, SKS 16, 72 / PV, 93
Map and deeper reading

Next

Dyrkøb 51 minute · 75 m
Go to next stop

After the outing

Two ways to finish

Open two route-specific choices when you know how much walking, weather, and reading the day has given you.

Stay with the historic addressSKAAL

A full lunch and broad beer list at the route's final Kierkegaard address. Best when you want to sit down at the end of the walk.
Kultorvet 11, 1175 København

Keep it quick and DanishHallernes Smørrebrød

Open sandwiches at Torvehallerne near Nørreport. Counter seating is limited, but takeaway leaves the afternoon open.
Rømersgade 18, 1362 København

Two optional days

Take the week at your own pace

The five essential days complete the five full outings. If you have a week, use a sixth day for North Zealand and shape the seventh around history, landscape, season, or rest.

These days are flexible. Insert them wherever weather, museum hours, and energy make sense. The Lokaltog lines open several routes through the forests and along the northern coast.

Frederiksborg Castle reflected in the castle lake beneath a dramatic sky
Optional day 6 · Inland north

Hillerød, Frederiksborg, and one further stop

Anchor the day at Frederiksborg, then choose Esrom or Fredensborg.

Make Frederiksborg the anchor, then add either Esrom or Fredensborg rather than promising all three. Esrom joins a medieval Cistercian abbey and lake; Fredensborg offers Nordmandsdalen and the private Kierkegaard family home, viewable only from outside. The final connections are not all on one rail line, so check the complete journey before setting out. A Kierkegaard display at Frederiksborg traces to a temporary 2013 exhibition, so do not count on finding it.

Image: Er.gagansharma · CC BY-SA 3.0

Kronborg Castle seen across the water at Helsingør
Optional day 7 · More history

Helsingør, Kronborg, and Gurre

A second substantial excursion through the Sound, coast, and inland ruins.

Begin with Helsingør and Kronborg, continue to Gurre, and use Hornbæk as a coastal pause only if the day still has room. Gurre lies away from the coastal rail line, so confirm its last connection before departure. Gribskov's Nook of Eight Paths and Søborg ruins remain alternate inland choices, not extra obligations.

Image: Fiskfisk · Public domain

Deer grazing below the Hermitage hunting lodge in Dyrehaven
Optional day 7 · Go slower

Dyrehaven

A nearby half-day among forest paths, deer, and the former royal hunting ground.

The former royal hunting ground is the nearest substantial landscape extension and works as a half-day outing. It belongs to the UNESCO-listed Par Force Hunting Landscape, with free-roaming deer, Eremitageslottet, and Bakken at its edge. Choose it when another long transit day would work against the spirit of the week.

Image: .bastian · CC BY-SA 2.0

Julius Paulsen's 1886 painting of a midsummer night at Tisvilde beach
Seasonal alternative · 23 June

Tisvilde for Sankt Hans

Helene Spring, the north coast, and a place-based midsummer evening.

Helene Spring and Helene's grave form a compact pair on the north coast. Tradition specifically directed pilgrims to the spring on Sankt Hans Eve. If the visit includes 23 June, Tisvilde gives the bonfire evening a place-based connection; otherwise it remains a quiet coastal alternative. Check the year's programme shortly before travelling.

Image: Julius Paulsen, Statens Museum for Kunst · CC0 1.0

King's Garden and Rosenborg Castle seen across the treetops
Use either optional day · Stay in Copenhagen

Public rooms, historical context, and a meal worth planning

Add a city interior, a historical map, or one reserved meal without building another full route.

Regensen, King's Garden, and the Royal Theatre can extend the city walks without becoming another full route. The National Museum, Christiansborg ruins, or Tivoli make flexible interior and evening choices. The historical map is useful for orientation, but its official survey series spans much of the nineteenth century, so treat it as historical context rather than an exact snapshot of 1850. Aamanns 1921 suits a deliberate Old City lunch; Høst works as the week's planned dinner.

Image: Cederskjold · CC BY 4.0

Sources and credits

Going further…

References appear with individual stops. This section lists the principal sources, citation abbreviations, image credits, and other acknowledgements.

How the references work

The English accounts isolate the information relevant to each location. Citations give the Søren Kierkegaards Skrifter volume and page first, followed by the cited English edition. SKS means Søren Kierkegaards Skrifter; KJN means Kierkegaard’s Journals and Notebooks. CUP, EO, WL, and the other short forms identify the cited English work. Links lead onward to Danish texts, automatically translated place essays, route maps, and local visitor information.

Kierkegaard in Copenhagen StoryMap

Madeline Altman, with Brian Söderquist. The principal source for place histories, textual connections, translations, English edition references, and several stop coordinates.

The Essential Kierkegaard, 2026

Hans Halvorson's Copenhagen seminar treats the city as a second text and pairs readings with Gilleleje, Frederiksberg, Assistens, Dyrehaven, Gurre, and the City Lakes.

Kierkegaard's Copenhagen

Halvorson's compact map of seventeen locations switches between the modern city and a nineteenth-century survey layer. The official source series spans a broad date range, so it is useful historical context rather than a single precisely dated view of 1850.

I Kierkegaards fodspor

The numbered Old City route and its Danish place essays. This link and the individual place links open in automatic English translation.

Søren Kierkegaards Skrifter

The Research Centre's critical edition at the Royal Danish Library. Stop pages link directly to the relevant original Danish work where its identifier is verified.

The Copenhagen Lakes

Wonderful Copenhagen's description of the three lakes, their present use, and the measured 6.35-kilometre circuit.

Kierkegaard by Nature

The official twelve-listening-post Gilleleje experience, available through Useeum. Opens in automatic English translation.

Frie Fodspor Gilleleje route

The mapped 12-kilometre coastal route, practical description, and downloadable GPX. Opens in automatic English translation.

Route photographs and historical views

Reusable images are stored locally and credited directly beneath each picture with the creator, source, license, and modifications. Public-domain, CC0, CC BY, and CC BY-SA material is used according to its individual terms.

Trail photographs and GPX

The marker photographs and offline route file were supplied for this guide to make the listening posts easier to identify and the walk easier to follow.

OpenStreetMap

Additional stop coordinates used by Find me are derived from OpenStreetMap data. © OpenStreetMap contributors.

Old City stop guide